After last winter's devastating fire in Mount Vernon that shut down several businesses - and could have claimed the Helmand and Thairish restaurants had it gotten even worse - one of the hard-hit restaurants is planning to reopen next week. Baltimore Magazine reports this in a recent Twitter posting, and on CityPeek. The new location will be right across the street from the old location. Best wishes to Ann and Tony Chennamoor. I'll be back soon!
Friday, July 29, 2011
Wednesday, July 27, 2011
Oh look, Restaurant Week is here already...
It all starts at the end of next week: the latest round in Baltimore's Summer Restaurant Week. A lot of local favorites are taking part. I plan to get out once, at least for lunch which is always cheaper ($20.11 for lunch, $35.11 for dinner).
Labels: Baltimore Restaurant Week
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
Where do you get your crab meat?
I was just discussing (okay, tweeting) about getting ready to make a crabcake from an old handwritten & hand-pasted family cookbook from my my mother's Great Aunt Florence, who died long before I was born. I was noting just how happy I am to have actual Chesapeake Bay crab meat to use. It's not so easy to find these days. Usually in Giant, I am lucky to find a tub that doesn't say "Packaged in China/Thailand/Indonesia" on the bottom.
So that led to the poll on the right, under the photo: where does YOUR crab meat come from? I try my best to only use Chesapeake Bay crab meat - for me, as long as it's from Maryland or Virginia, I'm happy (yes, Virginia - it is the same Bay). North Carolina is close enough to work when our crabs aren't in season, and the Tar Heels seem to prefer theirs to the ones from Virginia & Maryland, bless their hearts. (In fairness, I'd be saying the same thing about Chesapeake Bay crabs if I were from North Carolina - the local crab is always the favorite!)
The poll closes at the end of the day on August 2 (coinciding with the looming default on our nation's credit, by the way). You can choose multiple answers.
Labels: Chesapeake, crabs, polls
Buy Local Challenge is back
The Buy Local Challenge is back this year! Okay, I am a little late in mentioning it - this started Sunday - but the challenge is simple:
I don't kow if having a garden counts, but since the challenge helps inject new money into the local economy my guess is no. But it is in the spirit of eating local. So look for foods made in Maryland - better yet, made close to where you live - at markets and restaurants near you.
And now, you can follow the Buy Local Challenge on both Facebook and Twitter.
Labels: locally grown, Maryland cuisine
Sunday, July 24, 2011
Snacking State-by-State: Kentucky II - Burgoo Me, Baby!
If the mint julep is the official drink of the Kentucky Derby, the official meal of Kentucky must be burgoo. People outside of Kentucky and the immediate area may not have any clue what this is, though there are variations by the same name in southern Indiana and Illinois. It is a close cousin to Brunswick stew, and is pretty darn hearty to say the least.
Official Name: Commonwealth of Kentucky
State Nickname: The Bluegrass State
Admission to the US: June 1, 1792 (#15)
Capital: Frankfort (14th largest city)
Other Important Cities: Louisville (largest); Lexington (2nd); Bowling Green (3rd); Owensboro (4th)
Region: Appalachia, South, Upper South; East South Central (US Census)
RAFT Nations: Cornbread & BBQ; Chestnut
Bordered by: Illinois, Indiana & Ohio (north); West Virginia (northeast); Virginia (east); Tennessee (south); Missouri & the Mississippi River (west)
Official State Foods and Edible Things: blackberry (fruit); gray squirrel (wild animal game species); Kentucky spotted bass (fish); milk (drink)
Some Famous & Typical Foods: common Southern foods; Kentucky-specific foods such as burgoo & Derby pie; fried chicken (though not "Kentucky Fried Chicken"); mint julep & Kentucky bourbon
Just like Indian pudding in New England, gumbo in the Gulf Coast and our own crab cake here in the Chesapeake, every family and community seems to have its own recipe for burgoo. To go back to Jean Anderson's book A Love Affair with Southern Cooking, while legends abound about the origin of burgoo - some say it came from as far away as Wales - many historians agree on the general facts:
[Most h]istorians... agree that burgoo was created during the Civil War by Gus Jaubert, a French chef serving Confederate general John Hunt Morgan. At war's end, Jaubert settled in Lexington, Kentucky, began making burgoo on a massive scale, and soon gained fame as "the burgoo king"... Jaubert's original recipe apparently contained blackbirds. Unable to say "blackbird stew" not only because French was his first language but also because he had a hairlip, Jaubert pronounced it "burgoo." Or so I [Jean Anderson] was told. Elsewhere I learned that those early burgoos contained mostly squirrels plus whatever vegetables came to hand. [Anderson 2007: 128]Anderson goes on to note that she literally found hundreds of burgoo recipes. After my research, it seemed as if I had found about as many, with enough sheer variety that I just had no idea how to approach this project. Among the few common threads I found:
* Burgoo usually includes a few meats - this ain't vegan food here - and usually chicken is one of those meats. Mutton does not feature into all recipes, but many recipes specify mutton as one of those meats. Beef and/or pork also are common.
* Though no longer common, the early burgoos added all manner of game animals. Squirrel was, indeed, very popular, and you will still find it in a few modern recipes for it (No squirrel? Add chicken)
* Most recipes yield enough to feed a family reunion. Unless you want to cook for 20 people, you will need to pare down this recipe, which is what I did.
* This is not a quick thing to make. Food Network sent the ever-lovable Dave Lieberman down to Kentucky for his "In Search of Real Food" segment to see another massive burgoo-making operation in Owensboro for a Catholic Church function, and it wound up on YouTube:
After much hemming and hawing, I finally went with another Owensboro-based recipe for Kentucky burgoo - this from the Moonlite Inn in Owensboro. As they told NPR's "Hidden Kitchens" segment, it often featured chicken, mutton and various vegetables. I more or less followed Moonlite Inn's recipe, adding only beef and lima beans (which also pop up in many other recipes). And since I didn't have all day to make burgoo, and I didn't have a church full of people waiting for it, I went and cut the Moonlite Inn's recipe down to a quarter the size. The original makes about three gallons of the stuff.
The recipe: Kentucky Burgoo
To make the Moonlite Inn's Kentucky burgoo you will need more than a few ingredients:
* lamb meat (I bought about a pound for $6)
* chicken (I had this in the freezer - yes!)
* beef (not in the Moonlite Inn's recipe, but enough recipes have it that I wanted some in mine - about a half pound was $4, and I used half of that and froze the rest)
* cabbage and onion, ground up (I had the onion, and the half a head of cabbage, more than enough, was not much)
* a few potatoes, peeled (had those laying around)
* canned or fresh corn (not expensive)
* tomato ketchup, tomato purée, Worcestershire sauce and vinegar (had them)
* lemon juice (same)
* salt, pepper and cayenne (same)
* lima beans (half of an inexpensive one pound bag was good enough)
* water - lots of water
The one other modification I made to the Moonlite Inn recipe was to bust out the slow cooker for several of the steps. There are burgoo recipes for the slow cooker, but I didn't like the ones I saw.
Here I transferred everything from the pot to the slow cooker, and set it too cook for another four hours, again on low.
It needs to cook for a while so it can become thick. A burgoo is not a consommé after all. In fact, I was wondering as I made this why Chunky Soup hadn't commandeered a burgoo for one of its pready-made "soups that eat like a meal".
Serve with bread, biscuit, cracker or corn bread.
This is, indeed, quite the hearty stew. Everything blends nicely together - in fact, I would say the mutton, for my taste, blended a little too well with everything else since I couldn't find it too easily. It doesn't matter: as long a process as burgoo-making is, it is well worth the effort. Plus, with all the things you could add to it, I can see why each family seems to have its own recipe. Now when I eventually get to Brusnwick stew, I look forward to seeing just where the differences are. Bonus fact: on Kentucky Derby day, burgoo often follows that fabled mint julep as a first course, sometimes in the previous glass once it's empty.
From one end of the South to the other: the next state on my list is a state with one of the most famously unique and regional cuisines, unique not just in the US but within the South itself. Read on next week as I try my hand at Cajun food when I finally get to Louisiana.
Sources:
Anderson, Jean. A Love Affair with Southern Cooking: Recipes and Recollections. William Morrow: New York, 2007.
Beaumont Inn. "Recipe: How to Make the Perfect Mint Julep". Video "How to Make a Mint Julep" by Beaumont Inn, featuring Dixon Dedman. Video posted on YouTube by Beaumont Inn (user BeaumontInn) on May 24, 2010.
Hellmann's. "Owensboro Kentucky: Burgoo". From the In Search of Real Food YouTube Series with Dave Lieberman. Posted August 6, 2007.
National Public Radio. "Moonlite Burgoo and Mutton Dip". From the "Hidden Kitchens" Series. Originally published November 5, 2004.
Lacabe, Marga. "Margarita's Appalachian Menu". Date unknown.
Maker's Mark. "Mint Julep Recipe". Reprinted on the Beaumont Inn website. Date unknown.
Moonlite Bar-B-Q Inn. "The Burgoo Soup Story / The Burgoo Recipe". Copyright 1996-2005 The Moonlite Bar-B-Q Inn, Inc.
Some information also obtained from Wikipedia's "Kentucky" page and other pages, and the Food Timeline State Foods link to "Kentucky".
Thursday, July 21, 2011
Lunch on a 100° Day
On a hot day like today, where the heat index was 111° at 10 in the morning, cooking is not a great option (even though I will be doing it at some point, but just a little). What to eat to cool off? How about a nice garden salad (from my garden), with mint and Thai basil and some olive oil and salt? Couple that with a mint julep, some ginger ale and a freshly made gazpacho of Roma tomatoes I just bought, thrown together with olive oil, water, ice cubes, dried chilies, salt, a small red onion and two cloves of garlic (don't like bread crumbs in mine, and I don't have cukes on hand), blended until smooth. It's about as refreshing as you can get in this weather.

Labels: cocktails, salads, vegetable dishes, vegetarian/vegan
It's too darn hot...
I will be cooking today. I know, I am crazy. However, I do have some cold stuff to pair it off with as well: gazpacho in the freezer and salad in the fridge. Let's hope those go well with those exotic New England fiddleheads I yanked out of the freezer and will be stir frying up today (read about it in a few weeks when I try to interpret the foods of Maine).
In the meantime, deal with the heat in these ways:
* Please stay well-hydrated today, stay indoors in the A/C or at least a fan, as much as humanly possible - , for example, a mall, library, museum, hospital (if you have someone to visit - try not to go there as a patient, please), or house of worship (pray for cool weather - do it).
* If you do visit an air-conditioned pub, make sure you offset any alcohol you drink with water or juice or something along those lines. And don't just rely on soda, coffee or tea today either: the caffeine can be bad in this heat. Again, offset them with water, juices or anything that provides electrolytes.
* If you are doing activities outside (like the footie I was playing yesterday evening in much cooler 90° temperatures), stay hydrated and take frequent breaks.
* It's probably a fool's errand to look for the food trucks out today: the Gypsy Queen Café Truck (Twitter: @thegypsytruck) has already said they are staying home today due to the heat. Not to discourage people from visiting the food trucks, but who knows which ones will be out today? (UPDATE: At least one will be out today; the Kooper's Chowhound - Twitter: @BRGRwagon - is in Mount Vernon until 1:30. And the Haute Dog Carte - Twitter: @hautedogcarte - as always, is selling its delicious dogs).
* Did I mention that you need to stay hydrated today?
* Check in on your sick and elderly, and if you see any animals locked in cars... well I don't even want to think about that!
Labels: advisories, etcetera
Sunday, July 17, 2011
Snacking State-by-State: Kentucky I - That Derby Day Classic
Done (for now) with the Midwest, I head to the Upper South as I explore some of the most famous edible exports that the Bluegrass State has to offer the rest of America.
Official Name: Commonwealth of Kentucky
State Nickname: The Bluegrass State
Admission to the US: June 1, 1792 (#15)
Capital: Frankfort (14th largest city)
Other Important Cities: Louisville (largest); Lexington (2nd); Bowling Green (3rd); Owensboro (4th)
Region: Appalachia, South, Upper South; East South Central (US Census)
RAFT Nations: Cornbread & BBQ; Chestnut
Bordered by: Illinois, Indiana & Ohio (north); West Virginia (northeast); Virginia (east); Tennessee (south); Missouri & the Mississippi River (west)
Official State Foods and Edible Things: blackberry (fruit); gray squirrel (wild animal game species); Kentucky spotted bass (fish); milk (drink)
Some Famous & Typical Foods: common Southern foods; Kentucky-specific foods such as burgoo & Derby pie; fried chicken (though not "Kentucky Fried Chicken"); mint julep & Kentucky bourbon
For the most part, the foods of Kentucky are those of the South: catfish, hush puppies, cornbread and (well duh) fried chicken abound. This also includes the foods of Appalachia, which trundles through a massive part of the Bluegrass State (look at Margarita's Appalachian Menu for a bibliography of Appalachian cookbooks, which I will find useful at some point during this State-by-State series). And true, fried chicken is important in Kentucky (even if what the entire world thinks of as "Kentucky Fried Chicken" or, at least in Egypt, as just plain "Kentucky", has a bit more in the way of hydrogenated oils and high fructose syrups). Corbin, Kentucky's most famous son, Col. Harland Sanders, opened his first business in a gas station in 1930. As Jean Anderson points out in her book A Love Affair with Southern Cooking, it wasn't all just fried chicken at first. It was only after the government ran an interstate right through his business that the gears were set in motion for KFC to hit the big time
Still believing in his fried chicken with its secret seasoning blend of eleven herbs and spices, Sanders took to the road in 1952. Crisscrossing the country, he called on restaurant owners and fried batches of chicken... Dozens were impressed enough to cut a deal: Sanders would share his secret recipe and frying technique if they'd pay him a nickel for every order sold. [Anderson 2007: 114]Finally, a test case for that famous saying, "If I had a nickel for every time..."
Another famous Kentucky classic is pretty tough to find at KFC (unless Pepsi is starting to make them en masse). The mint julep is, by all accounts, a Kentucky Derby classic. Yes, various Southern states lay their own claims to their own juleps, but Kentucky's is the one that everyone keeps going back to. There is a variety of recipes even for Kentucky's take on the mint julep, but it more or less comes back to the same simple formula: Kentucky bourbon, simple syrup and mint. Since I am not well-versed in the art of the cocktail or other liquored drinks, I needed some visual aids. I found one at the website for the Beaumont Inn in Harrodsburg, made by Dixon Dedman, which you all can follow below:
I more or less followed Dedman's procedure, since he is showing how to make just one and since it looks so easy when he does it! But I did take a hint from the recipe posted by the Beaumont Inn underneath the video, which shows how to make enough mint juleps for 30 people! I am not drinking that much liquor, but I took a cue from Maker's Mark for how to infuse their bourbon with mint leaves.
The recipe: Mint Julep (Kentucky-Style)
To make a mint julep, you will need the following:
* fresh sprigs of mint - lots of it if you are making a lot of mint juleps. Since the one tiny mint plant I planted in my raised bed at Clifton Park last year has literally taken over the whole damn bed, I am not lacking in fresh mint.
* equal parts water and sugar, which you will use to make a simple syrup. Don't just mix the two in the glass like some sloppy bartenders - make the simple syrup, for corn's sake. It's not as hard as it looks. Note: some folks infuse mint leaves into the simple syrup while cooking it. The Maker's Mark recipe did not suggest that, probably because you will infuse the bourbon itself with your mint.
* crushed ice - okay, it doesn't have to be crushed, but this is preferable.
In addition, make sure you also have a straw to slightly bruise the mint as you push it down into the glass, kitchen shears to cut the straw, and a jigger with which to measure the bourbon and simple syrup.
If you don't have crushed ice on hand, go ahead and crush it. I found that neither my blender nor my food processor was very useful for crushing ice - I got a snowball-like consistency at the bottom of the blender and many slightly bruised ice cubes on top in the blender, but that was still better than the food processor which didn't do much more than slightly crack the ice. I finally had to put the ice in a ziploc bag and take a hammer to it on the front porch.
To make the simple syrup, take a cup of water and bring it to a boil, and then put in an equal portion of sugar, constantly stirring it over low heat.
It is done when the sugar is completely dissolved the simple syrup is ready. You can tell this by taking a metal spoon and pouring the syrup back into the bowl, looking for crystals. No crystals = simple syrup (there are many places online to find these instructions). During the simmering process you may want to put some mint leaves into the mixture, which you will fish out later. Either way, let the syrup come to room temperature and refrigerate.
If you don't use minty simple syrup, follow Maker's Mark's suggestion (again, on the Beaumont Inn website's mint julep page): take about 40 smallish fresh mint leaves and cover them with Kentucky bourbon.
Let them sit for 15 minutes, then take a cotton cloth (I used a fine cheese cloth)
and put the mint leaves into it and squeeze the life out of those leaves. Dip the sachet into the bourbon a few more times, each time wringing as hard as you can.
Throw the leaves out and set the minty bourbon aside until ready to use.
To assemble the mint julep, start with a glass. Preferably, you will use a silver mint julep cup, but those can get pricey and I am on a budget.
This assembly is per Maker's Mark:
Fill your glass part way with crushed ice.
Next put in a sprig or two of mint.
I have not had a mint julep before. I did have a black-eyed susan once, on Preakness Day, though I was not terribly satisfied with the version I had (note: the black-eyed susan also uses Kentucky bourbon). The mint julep I made was pleasantly sweet and minty, and very cold and refreshing for the hot day on which I made it. Because mine was not as strong, it didn't get me terribly buzzed. I wasn't going for "terribly buzzed" anyway, so I was not disappointed. Again, if you want yours stronger, fill your jigger accordingly. This is a very nice drink and I now finally know how to make it. That and the simple syrup will come in quite handy for other uses (I have some iced tea to make, for example...)
Sources:
Anderson, Jean. A Love Affair with Southern Cooking: Recipes and Recollections. William Morrow: New York, 2007.
Beaumont Inn. "Recipe: How to Make the Perfect Mint Julep". Video "How to Make a Mint Julep" by Beaumont Inn, featuring Dixon Dedman. Video posted on YouTube by Beaumont Inn (user BeaumontInn) on May 24, 2010.
Hellmann's. "Owensboro Kentucky: Burgoo". From the In Search of Real Food YouTube Series with Dave Lieberman. Posted August 6, 2007.
National Public Radio. "Moonlite Burgoo and Mutton Dip". From the "Hidden Kitchens" Series. Originally published November 5, 2004.
Lacabe, Marga. "Margarita's Appalachian Menu". Date unknown.
Maker's Mark. "Mint Julep Recipe". Reprinted on the Beaumont Inn website. Date unknown.
Moonlite Bar-B-Q Inn. "The Burgoo Soup Story / The Burgoo Recipe". Copyright 1996-2005 The Moonlite Bar-B-Q Inn, Inc.
Some information also obtained from Wikipedia's "Kentucky" page and other pages, and the Food Timeline State Foods link to "Kentucky".
Thursday, July 14, 2011
Parce que c'est la Fête Nationale (de la France)
Today is Bastille Day, and hopefully we are having a better one than the French Women's World Cup team (congrats to our own Women's World Cup team, who play Japan in the final round on Sunday).
Back to Bastille Day: find some good French eatin' around town this weekend - anything from crepes to escargot (Urbanspoon has the lowdown on all the French food around Baltimore). Or you could just pack up a Chinese food container with profiteroles lovingly made in your kitchen in the Hamptons, like Ina does. Because nothing screams "Overthrow the monarchy!" like the Hamptons.
Labels: baked goods, French, holidays, television shows, videos
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Snacking State-by-State: Kansas II - Hello, Pickle!
Bread and pickles don't really go together in my mind, unless there's a sandwich going on somewhere. In fact, pickles don't really strike me as "Midwestern food". Or are they?
Official Name: State of Kansas
State Nicknames: The Sunflower State; The Wheat State; The Breadbasket of the World
Admission to the US: January 29, 1861 (#34)
Capital: Topeka (4th largest city)
Other Important Cities: Wichita (largest city); Overland Park (2nd); Kansas City (no, the one in Kansas: 3rd largest)
Region: Midwest, Great Plains; East North Central (US Census)
RAFT Nations: Cornbread & BBQ, Bison
Bordered by: Nebraska (north); Missouri (east); Oklahoma (south); Colorado (west)
Official State Foods and Edible Things: buffalo (animal); wild native sunflower (flower & flower emblem); honeybee (insect - its honey is what is edible)
Some Famous & Typical Foods: prairie foods, including Native American and pioneer foods; wheat, wheat and more wheat; sunflowers; honey; did I mention wheat?
Judith Fertig, in her Prairie Home Cooking, mentions that prairie housewives regularly put out relish trays and, during the hot summers, had ice cold pickles ready in the refrigerator (or perhaps the icebox). The following recipe comes directly from Fertig's cookbook. This isn't her recipe per se - she tells us where she got it:
I first tasted these pickles in Ernestine Van Duvall's kitchen in Nicodemus, Kansas, when the temperature outside was 106 degrees in the shade. She had made them to accompany a barbecued rib dinner for Emancipation Days [celebrating the Emancipation Proclamation], held in late July. Cold, crisp, crunchy, and slightly sweet, they were just what my parched tastebuds wanted. Good home cooks all over the Heartland keep a tub of pickles like these in the regrigerator for days when temperatures soar and appetites flag. If you are a novice pickler, these quick pickles are a simple place to start. [Fertig 1999: 50]Again, there isn't anything specifically Kansan about these pickles, but this seems like a good thing to have on hand during the hot summer months that are about to hit here - not to mention the hot spring we've had lately.
The recipe: Icicle Pickles
As Fertig suggests, this is an easy pickle for pickling noobs like me. I have hardly ever pickled anything. I did make a very fast Cambodian-style pickle a while back, but that's a different type of pickle altogether.
* cucumbers (about one pickling cuke yields a cup of cucumber slices, and you will be slicing them thinly)
* yellow onions (again thinly sliced and chopped)
* pickling salt (a large box is not too expensive; you can also use kosher salt, but you will need to adjust the amount: What's Cooking America talks more about this)
* distilled vinegar (got it, but bought a much bigger bottle since I needed a lot)
* sugar (same, but I had more than enough)
* celery seeds and mustard seeds (I needed to buy both. These can be pricey, but there is no shame in buying the budget herbs and spices)
First, slice the cucumbers thinly. The best way to do this is with a mandoline slicer with a safety. You don't want nice little slices of you, do you? This is why these mandolines freak the hell out of me.
Gently mix the cucumber slices and the onion slices together and set aside while you prepare the brine.
I had no idea just how easy brining pickles for the fridge could be. All I had to do for this recipe was mix an equal amount of vinegar and sugar together, and boil them with pickling salt, celery seeds and mustard seeds.
Boil them until the sugar dissolves, and pour the liquid over the cukes and onions.
They aren't done yet, of course. Set them in the fridge to pickle for at least 24 hours. Fertig notes that they will keep in the refrigerator indefinitely.
These were simple and nicely sweet and tart pickles. It was not quite a pickle I was used to eating - a little sweeter than the more savory and tangy pickles I prefer. I would like to play with some variations: dill, more sour pickles, perhaps an Indian pickle version, or even one with actual pickling spices. But even though I cut the recipe in half, I am unlikely to finish these pickles anytime soon. I guess that's what a hot summer is for.
My first foray into the Midwest is done. Next I head not too far away fro the Midwest, to Appalachia and bluegrass, bourbon and burgoo: Kentucky is coming up very soon.
Sources:
Fertig, Judith M. Prairie Home Cooking: 400 Recipes That Celebrate the Bountiful Harvests, Creative Cooks, and Comforting Foods of the American Heartland. The Harvard Common Press: Boston, 1999. Also partly available on Google Books.
Hester, Bree (BakedBree). "Honey Wheat Sunflower Bread Recipe". Published August 24, 2010.
Kansas Wheat Commission. Facts About Kansas Wheat. Kansas Wheat, copyright 2009.
Kansas Wheat Commission. "Sunflower Wheat Bread". Kansas Wheat, copyright 2011.
King Arthur Flour. "Kansas Sunflower Bread". King Arthur Flour, copyright 2011.
Some information also obtained from Wikipedia's "Kansas" page and other pages, and the Food Timeline State Foods link to "Kansas".

