Steven Raichlen shows us how to make the perfect all-American hamburger. I would gladly pay him Tuesday for this hamburger today.
* I admit that I've always had trouble pronouncing his name. But as he says, it's RIKE-lynn
Steven Raichlen shows us how to make the perfect all-American hamburger. I would gladly pay him Tuesday for this hamburger today.
Labels: grilling, hamburgers, holidays, videos
It's coming! namely, the end to Maryland's stupid law that forbids a person from direct-shipping wine from a winery to his or her home. Starting July 1, as everyone else now knows, Marylanders may begin direct-ordering wine from out-of-state wineries. I still cannot benefit from that law during this current trip to Cali, since the law goes into effect a month after I return to Maryland. But at least I can order things from favorite wineries in Rancho Cucamonga or Temecula. That is a start.
Labels: Maryland's stupid blue laws, wine
Chicago may be the food center of the Midwest, but it is by no means the only city to feature its own favorite dishes. Just a few hundred miles south of the Windy City lies the capital, Springfield, and the local specialty: a shoe named after equine footwear.
Official Name: State of Illinois
State Nicknames: The Prairie State; The Land of Lincoln
Admission to the US: December 3, 1818 (#21)
Capital: Springfield (6th largest city)
Other Important Cities: Chicago (largest in the state and the Midwest; 3rd largest in the US); Aurora (2nd largest); Rockford (3rd largest)
Region: Midwest, Great Lakes; East North Central (US Census)
RAFT Nations: Cornbread & BBQ, Wild Rice
Bordered by: Wisconsin (north); Lake Michigan (northeast); Indiana (east); Kentucky (southeast & south); Missouri (southwest); Iowa (northwest)
Official State Foods and Edible Things: popcorn (snack food); GoldRush apple (fruit); white-tailed deer (animal)
Some Famous & Typical Foods: typical Midwestern foods, especially corn; Native American and pioneer foods; state-specific foods (horseshoe sandwich, shrimp de Jonghe, Chicago dog, Italian beef); also note: deep-dish pizza and hot dogs were first made popular in Illinois
Springfield has its own signature dish, called the "horseshoe sandwich", an open-faced sandwich consisting of thick bread topped (in order) with some kind of meat, then French fries and finally a cheese and beer sauce. The horseshoe sandwich is found in many restaurants in the area - so note Jane & Michael Stern of the previously mentioned Roadfood.com. The Sterns' book Roadfood Sandwiches gives the skinny - er, the lowdown (there ain't nothin' skinny about this sandwich) on this fabled sandwich that is not found anywhere else in the Midwest, much less the country:The original, as invented in 1928 at the Leland Hotel [in Springfield], was built around a slab of ham. Since then, hamburgers have become even more popular as the meat of choice. Other local options include corned beef, walleye, grilled vegetables, turkey, chicken, tomato, and loosemeats [blogger's note: loosemeats will be addressed in a few weeks when we get to Iowa] [Stern & Stern 2007:115]
The Sterns' reprint their recipe from the Springfield Irish pub D'Arcy's Pint, and it is this recipe that I tried out here. Contra their suggestion, I did try it with a hamburger first, but ended up liking it better when I just took their advice and used a few big slices o' ham.
The recipe: Horseshoe Sandwich
I won't reproduce the recipe here (again, copyright), but I can tell you what goes in it:
* a few slices of bread (the thicker the better - the Sterns recommend using Texas toast, but all I had on hand was Wonder Bread. That's Midwestern enough, isn't it?)
* French fries (I got a small from the local Boardwalk Fries & Burgers while visiting the folks in Lansdowne. NB: Watch out for a Back to the Beltway post about Lansdowne & Arbutus when gas prices go back down)
* some kind of meat (I have two beautiful burgers pictured here, but eventually liked the version with meat better)
* The rest of the ingredients go into the legendary cheese sauce that covers the whole thing: cheddar cheese (I used the whole block), two egg yolks, Worcestershire sauce, dry mustard, and lager beer, in this case Victory. If you aren't close enough to a heart attack, you should also add butter. Yes, you will melt the cheese in the butter.
The most tedious part of the recipe is the making of the cheese sauce, and it isn't that tedious unless you are too impatient to wait for cheese to melt.
First, melt the cheese and the butter together (told you). In a separate dish, combine everything else, mix well, and add it to the fully melted cheese.
Once melted until smooth, or as smooth as you can get it, you will assemble the sandwich:
First the bread,
Next the meat (here, a hamburger patty cut lengthwise just because I can't bring myself to eat two hamburgers at once)
Then the French fries
And finally the cheese sauce.
And there you have it. As I said before, I also did this with ham, which I liked better.
I don't think I could eat this again. It is too much food and fat for me. Oh sure, it's decadent in its own, extreme eating sort of way, but even with ham instead of hamburger (and this was much more manageable mind you) it's just so much food for me! Maybe it's just a Springfield, Illinois, thing, I dunno.
Sources:
Stern, Jane, and Michael Stern. Roadfood Sandwiches. Houghton Mifflin: New York, 2007.
Some information also obtained from Wikipedia's "Illinois" page and other pages, and the Food Timeline State Foods link to "Illinois".
Just a few quick notes on things I've been eating out here lately:
* Yesterday my friends Jim & Gil and I all went to Wabi Sabi of Rancho Cucamonga. They were stunned to know that this place, which has been around for years, is completely new to me. As usual, we over-ordered. A few of things we got: an average but do-able spicy tuna roll, a lovely and hearty spate of veggie and seafood tempura, and - specifically for me - a combo plate of teriyaki salmon (not at all dry like so many I have had) and more veggie and shrimp tempura. The tempura soft shell crabs were also a nice reminder of home, crunchy and tender all at the same time.
* From there we ventured over to Palm Springs. It didn't hit us at the time, but Thursday nights are Village Fest nights in Palm Springs. Many blocks are closed to parking and traffic for a variety of kiosks: from various street performers (most good, though the guy tritely playing "Imagine" on the panpipes made me want to jab my ears with ice picks) to handbags and clothes to the "Ask a Rabbi" booth (I'm not making that up) to lots and lots of food. There was local produce, specifically dates and oranges (this is date and orange country after all), many fruits and vegetables. There were many booths of baked goods, including one where Jim bought a hearty "Crimson" bread filled with cranberries and currants. There was a lot of pre-prepared food, too: gyros and tacos, Mexican and Guatemalan, hot dogs and BBQ. If you ever find yourself in Palm Springs on a Thursday night, you will need to see this.
This topped off a visit to the Palm Springs Art Museum, which is free every Thursday night from 4 to 8, again to coincide with the Village Fest.
* Jim, by the way, has only once been to a Whole Foods, way back in 2002. There are none in the Inland Empire (note to Whole Foods: open a branch in Riverside or Ontario or something. Soon). Gil has just moved to Pasadena, which has two. We won't get to Gil's new pad while I am in town, but Gil promises to drag Jim's ass to Whole Foods in the near future.
My previous Illinois post examined the legendary Chicago deep-dish pizza. Of course, Italians are not the only Chicagoans who have altered the Midwestern foodie landscape. Greeks, Cubans, South Asians, Jews, Russians, Irish, African-Americans, Chinese, and so on - I could list ethnicities for the rest of this post. They have all contributed to Chicago's cuisine. The first (and so far only) time I visited Chicago, way back around 2000, I had Japanese, Armenian and Thai food in just a few days. Among those many ethnicities who have defined Chicago's cuisine are the Polish, who have had an important impact in the Windy City, boasting the largest Polish-American community in the country.
Official Name: State of Illinois
State Nicknames: The Prairie State; The Land of Lincoln
Admission to the US: December 3, 1818 (#21)
Capital: Springfield (6th largest city)
Other Important Cities: Chicago (largest in the state and the Midwest; 3rd largest in the US); Aurora (2nd largest); Rockford (3rd largest)
Region: Midwest, Great Lakes; East North Central (US Census)
RAFT Nations: Cornbread & BBQ, Wild Rice
Bordered by: Wisconsin (north); Lake Michigan (northeast); Indiana (east); Kentucky (southeast & south); Missouri (southwest); Iowa (northwest)
Official State Foods and Edible Things: popcorn (snack food); GoldRush apple (fruit); white-tailed deer (animal)
Some Famous & Typical Foods: typical Midwestern foods, especially corn; Native American and pioneer foods; state-specific foods (horseshoe sandwich, shrimp de Jonghe, Chicago dog, Italian beef); also note: deep-dish pizza and hot dogs were first made popular in Illinois
Lamenting our own canceled Polish Festival in Baltimore, I felt extra-inspired to delve into that most beloved of Polish dumplings, the pierogi. The Polish American Journal has a whole webpage just on Polish and Polish American foods. There is so much I did not know about Polish food, but I do now know just how important the pierogi is. Apparently it even has its own patron saint - St. Hyacinth. May he grant this Irish-Italian guy luck in his first attempt at making that most Polish of dumplings.
The recipe: Pierogi (with Potato and Sauerkraut Fillings)
Though there are variations of pierogi all over Eastern Europe (Going through withdrawal over the Polish one? Wait for the Ukrainian Festival. They will have them), we know them best as Polish food, and far be it from me to say which culture's is best. Chef Robert Strybel of the same Polish American Journal mentions that they are such an important part of everyday life in Poland, as he says, it even led to a common expression.
"Swiety Jacek z pierogami!", (St. Hyacinth and his pierogi!) is an old expression of surprise, roughly equivalent to the American "good grief!" or "holy smokes!" Nobody seems to know what the connection between these dumplings and the saintly 13th century monk was all about. [Strybel 2011]With all the pierogi recipes online, I went with Strybel's, done less in recipe format and more in a narrative. It was a little more difficult to follow this way, but it worked. I more or less followed his recipe as he wrote it, with changes noted below.
Labels: Chicago, Midwestern cuisine, Polish, Snacking State-by-State
Labels: dim sum, food carts and trucks, food trucks, Indian, Los Angeles, Pan-Asian, road trips
I am back in California for the week, visiting friends from various facets of my 6 1/2 years in the Golden State. The plane ride was not terribly appetizing: just a breakfast burrito at California Kitchen (at BWI, no less), a Nathan's hot dog at Phoenix Sky Harbor between connections, and two soft tacos from Del Taco en route to my friends' house. Okay, those weren't horrible things to eat at all. I could have imagined worse (like those vanilla Oreos I got on the Southwest flight to Phoenix).
A few more food-related things to do whilst I am in the Southland:
* Tomorrow I hit LA (another taping of G4TV's Web Soup with the awesomely funny Nerdian-American comic Chris Hardwick). While here I want to try to make as much of my meals out of food truck eating as I can (I recently did this in DC. I will write about that when I get home). If not, well LA is definitely a food city.
* Vietnamese, Thai and Mexican abound in the Inland Empire. Imma eat it all.
* Not sure what to indulge in, food wise, in Palm Springs yet. We shall see.
* Some of my closest friends are doing an all-Southern meal for me (living with his wife and daughter in Redlands now, my buddy Kurt is originally from the other end of the Chesapeake Bay - Richmond - so we both have a crab-related culinary reference point)
* Two friends of mine, Gil and Jim, have fallen in love with this new sushi place. They will take me there or I will hurt them.
* And more shopping at Fresh and Easy, Tesco's US-tailored supermarket chain.
Ah, California here I've come!
NOTE: The state-spotlight posts about Illinois will still be going up this week. I actually wrote those a few weeks ago in anticipation of the trip. Pre-scheduled auto-publishing is a beautiful thing.
This is a new day in my State-by-State project: my first foray into the Midwest. It's not that I've been neglecting this region. It's just that, alphabetically, no Midwestern state has come up yet (you've noticed maybe that I am going in alphabetical order). And we'll be in the Midwest for a while with this series, starting with the largest Midwestern state of them all.
Official Name: State of Illinois
State Nicknames: The Prairie State; The Land of Lincoln
Admission to the US: December 3, 1818 (#21)
Capital: Springfield (6th largest city)
Other Important Cities: Chicago (largest in the state and the Midwest; 3rd largest in the US); Aurora (2nd largest); Rockford (3rd largest)
Region: Midwest, Great Lakes; East North Central (US Census)
RAFT Nations: Cornbread & BBQ, Wild Rice
Bordered by: Wisconsin (north); Lake Michigan (northeast); Indiana (east); Kentucky (southeast & south); Missouri (southwest); Iowa (northwest)
Official State Foods and Edible Things: popcorn (snack food); GoldRush apple (fruit); white-tailed deer (animal)
Some Famous & Typical Foods: typical Midwestern foods, especially corn; Native American and pioneer foods; state-specific foods (horseshoe sandwich, shrimp de Jonghe, Chicago dog, Italian beef); also note: deep-dish pizza and hot dogs were first made popular in Illinois
Many of us have a notion of what "Midwestern cuisine" is - that it's bland, that's it's vague, that it isn't even a cuisine really. It's certainly not as easy to pin down as "Southwestern" or "Southern" or "New England" cuisine. Indiana native Marcia Adams, author of Heartland: The Best of the Old and the New from Midwest Kitchens, does her best to sum up "Midwestern cuisine" for people like me who aren't from this most hearty part of the country.
...[T]he backbone [of Midwestern cuisine] is the wondrous bounty of the land. We have an embarrassment of riches at our doorsteps: grains, vegetables, tree fruits, game, fish, and range-fed cattle. it is in understanding how the divergent groups in this vast region have integrated indigenous foods while retaining and nurturing their individual ethnic heritages that the true essence of Heartland cooking can be found. [Adams 1991: xi]Adams points out that Midwestern ("Heartland") food is a combination of farm and frontier, WASP and immigrant and Native American, simple and haute cuisine (remember, Grant Achatz of Chicago's Alinea is at the forefront of molecular gastronomy, as I will explore sometime during this series). Perhaps the Midwest gets a bad rap for being bland and tasteless. But I am finding out that is not. Or at least not nearly as much as I had thought.
Labels: Chicago, Illinois, Midwestern cuisine, pizza, Snacking State-by-State
The taste test is coming up soon, as I fly across the continent just to try In & Out side by side with Five Guys!'
Okay no, that isn't why I'm going to Cali at all. I am visiting friends. But since Five Guys is finally on the West Coast, a taste test is in order. I was just telling a Twitter friend that I find Five Guys "overrated" and way too expensive for what you get. I also replied that message to Serious Eats, who did the ultimate taste test: In & Out vs Five Guys vs New York's wonderful Shake Shack. They did this totally scientifically: since they had to bring the In & Out burger home on a plane, they also inflicted the same handicap on the other burgers, buying them approximately the same time as the In & Out burger was purchased, and eating them all at the same time.
Their humble opinion: Shake Shack is best (I prefer In & Out over Shake Shack, but just barely). We are both in agreement on Five Guys:
As for Five Guys? Well, despite their legions of followers and rapid (perhaps too rapid?) expansion, we're mostly left just scratching our heads. It's not a bad burger per se, but the flavor of its beef is nowhere near in line with its proportions. [SeriousEats.com 2011]As for Shake Shack being the winner: despite what they say, I still think it has everything to do with it being the hometown burger for these New York foodies.
I went on a date last night to see the DC United play Colorado (it was a draw - gee, thanks, refs). It was my first visit to a DC United game - nay, my first visit to RFK at all. And since my self-imposed boycott of the O's back from a time when they brought suckitude to a whole new level, I have not been to a major league sporting event of any kind for years (NB: now that they're at a level where they deserve my money, maybe my feet will darken the doors of Camden Yards). The Ravens, as great as they are playing, really aren't an option at the current price. And I still need to get my ass down to the Arena to see the Blast at some point.
The last time I visited a stadium to see a sporting event, the tickets were $25 to see the O's play whomever. Those were nosebleed seats. The edible food was almost as much, and the inedible food was still overpriced. I know they serve a different caliber of ballpark food today - pit beef, crab cakes, real Marylandia - but down in RFK the food that I had was just different. In our section, the food was pleasantly Latin in flavor: Mexican and Salvadoran. Since he bought the tickets, I bought the food. I almost went with the carne asada with beans and rice ($10), though my date chose that for himself. Instead, I forewent that for a few pork & cheese pupusas with curtido (Salvadoran slaw) for $9 - or at least, that's what I should have paid for it, when the guy only charged me $6. Mr. Honesty here tried to point this out to him, but it was no use. And I needed the extra money to buy my date and I some Negra Modelos.
A few more beers later we were back on the Metro to his place (ahem) - and not before watching the many inspiring little league soccer teams in attendance, waving their DC, Maryland, Virginia and DC United flags whenever we almost got a goal (or when we got our one goal). There was also much yelling at the refs, who seemed to really like what the Rapids were doing. Just sayin'.
Labels: beer, Mexican, Salvadoran, sports, stadium food, Washington (DC)